Donaulimes World Heritage Circuit: Stage 2 Schlögen-Passau

The second stage of this enjoyable river cycling tour, in search of the fascination of the UNESCO World Heritage Danube Limes, leads upstream on the outer side of the Danube Limes – in the land of the barbarians – back to Passau. After a magnificent view deep down on the natural wonder of the Schlögen Danube loop and an authentic Danube crossing with a bike ferry, idyllic river cycling along rare hillside and gorge forests delights. Thoughts inevitably awaken of the eternal forests of the free Germanic tribes in Roman times. Every border has two sides!

Highlights:

• Natural wonder Schlögen Danube loop (viewing platform & ferry crossing)


• Upper Danube narrow valley (rare hillside and gorge forests = primeval forest of the free Germanic tribes)


• Obernzell (graphite – the black gold)


• Old town peninsula Passau (fortress city Batavis + Roman harbor)

The famous natural wonder Schlögen Danube loop is the magnificent start of this stage. Deeply embedded, the Danube lies here in the long breakthrough section of the Upper Danube valley and changes its flow direction twice by almost 180 degrees within a few kilometers. After overnighting “in” the castle on the Danube bank, a short hike up to the viewing platform “Schlögener Donaublick” is recommended: only the view from above reveals the fascination of this natural spectacle – simply breathtaking! Tip: Enjoy the scenic film in early morning, then have breakfast (total walking time ~ 1 hour)! Now the bike tour can begin. Like Roman scouting troops once did, we cross the mighty Danube via a (bike) ferry. The waters are tame today, feared in the past. Upon reaching the north bank, we stand beyond the protective Danube Limes – in the land of the barbarians!

Now follows idyllic pleasure river cycling at its best: the steep valley slopes delight with wonderful mixed forests – the last large hillside and gorge (primeval) forests of Central Europe. Quiet, well-paved side roads follow the broad Danube band. And almost no houses. An intense river-nature experience and a feeling of remoteness set in. Here you can sense a little how the Romans perceived the land of the “barbarians.” The Roman historian Publius Cornelius Tacitus (1st century) described the land of the free Germanic tribes as “... either frightening through forests or horrible through its swamps ...”. The background: the Mediterranean homeland of the Romans had already been cultivated for centuries. Thus, large forests caused unease for them. The free Germanic tribes, on the other hand, felt comfortable in the extensive primeval forests. They were by no means uncultured primeval forest barbarians. There was no single people, but countless various tribes who settled and lived very differently. Thus, a rich culture developed, which, however, fundamentally differed from Roman culture. 

At the Zillenhafen in Freizell, a Roman resting place offers insight into Roman military shipping. Appropriate, since one of the last Zille builders of Austria is located next door. Zillen are very flat wooden boats that were used in similar form already since Roman times. Tip: Here there is the rare opportunity to rent such a motorized Zille even without a boat license!

From the Jochenstein power plant, the lightly trafficked Danube bank road continues to the wonderful market of Obernzell. (Water) castle, historic market square, butcher, ... a true Bavarian jewel! Rare graphite is mined nearby. Ceramics can be made particularly fireproof by this additive, but also acquire a characteristic black coloration. Celts and Romans knew these deposits and traded with this black pottery. Graphite – the black gold! The bike runs easily on a separate cycle path along the now well-used Danube bank road and follows the meanders of the Danube valley. The forest slopes become lower. At the rest stop “Donau-Nixe,” a last view back into the natural gorge of the Upper Danube valley opens. The surroundings become more urban.

The view perspective of the confluence of the three rivers of Passau from this side is the final highlight: the rivers, the magnificent old town peninsula, the Oberhaus fortress, ... – simply breathtaking! First, we cross the Black Ilz. The Prinzregent-Luitpold-Bridge brings us from the land of the barbarians across the broad Danube back into the Roman Empire. Right after the bridge, the Roman square reminds us of the castles on the old town peninsula. The connected Danube harbor was located at the height of the magnificent town hall square (easy to recognize by the building ensemble: old customs office, old town hall with tower and new town hall). At the main station, our discovery bike tour in search of the fascination of the UNESCO World Heritage Danube Limes ends.

Discovery journeys with a pleasurable stop! This route passes directly by the following culinary partner:

• Fish Restaurant Gasthof Luger

Signage:

To make orientation easier for you, this themed cycling path has been marked with its own cycling guidance system. There are adaptations for the Bavarian and Upper Austrian state cycling systems in use.

Special note:

Attention! Border crossing Upper Austria – Bavaria at Passau. Don’t forget your passport!